Most women are content to take cosmetic companies by their word and accept whatever information they provide in advertisements. If they say a makeup product is specially-formulated and can do something specific for the skin, the customers believe them. If they say the makeup is enriched with nourishing ingredients, women buy them because they are encouraged by this promotion. Not everybody bothers to check the ingredients listed at the back of each container because they don’t know what those substances are anyway.

 A wise consumer will scrutinise the composition of his/her purchases though, especially if it can have a direct and immediate effect on his/her body. Makeup can catalyse an immediate effect as well, especially if the skin is incompatible with the ingredients found in the products.

 Watch out for the following ingredients that may be found in some makeup products. They usually result to itching and skin irritation—and sometimes even worse—so avoid them if you see them in the label.

1. Talc/Talcum Powder

This mineral is one of the most commonly used substances not just for makeup but also for other hygiene products like underarm deodorants and antiperspirants, baby powder, and soap. Manufacturers use it because it is a very affordable ingredient. However, talc in its natural form contains asbestos, and it is this form that’s considered carcinogenic. Studies show that women who applied products containing talc near the genital area have a higher risk of developing ovarian cancer. Talc is absorbed through the skin and into the reproductive system where the substance latches onto the lining of the ovary, forming cancerous tumors. The same type of tumors may develop in the lungs if the powder is inhaled.

 There are products that use asbestos-free talc though but, unless if you can be sure that what you’re using is truly asbestos-free, avoid talc products whenever possible.

 2. Phenylenediamine (a.k.a. Coal Tar Dye, D&C Blue #1, Green#3, Yellow#5 & #6, Red#33)

This artificial coloring is sometimes used in dyes and makeup palates. There have been many reports of allergic reactions to products laced with this coloring product. Some even reported fatigue, headaches, and asthma attacks for those who inhaled the powder form. The more serious side-effects can be fatigue and increased risks for multiple myelonma and lymphoma.

3. DEA (diethanolamine), MEA (monoethanolamine), EA (triethanolamine), SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate) and SLES (sodium laureth sulphate)

 These make facial washes foam. Unfortunately, they are also irritants to the eye—and not just because it is painful when the soap reaches the open eye; DEA, MEA and TEA can cause dermatitis. They are also easily absorbed by the skin and penetrate the body’s organs. SLS and SLES on the other hand can lead to depression, diarrhea, and skin irritation.

4. Benzoyl Peroxide

 This is a common ingredient for products with anti-acne properties. At the very least, it can cause skin and eye irritation. When accumulated in significant amounts, it may cause DNA damage and cause the body’s cells to mutate unnaturally. This may result in formation of tumors. Benzoyl peroxide is also toxic by inhalation.

5. Mercury and Lead

 By now you must have heard about children’s toys being recalled because of high mercury or lead content. Mercury is a very harmful substance, even in small quantities. It can badly affect brain function and overall health. This is usually found in mascara, which is bad given the close proximity of eye lashes to the brain. Lead in makeup (and any other skin care and beauty products) might lead to poisoning in the long run. Like mercury, lead is also toxic to the brain.

 6. Phthalates

Pregnant women should avoid any product that contains phthalate-based substances and their derivatives (ex: dibutyl phthalate in nail polish). When absorbed by the body, especially by males, it promotes feminization and can cause sperm damage (which means small sperm count) and other negative effects to the male sex organs. That’s why pregnant women should avoid it, especially if they are expecting a baby boy. On the woman’s part, phthalates may result in infertility.

7. Sunscreen Chemicals and Nanoparticles

Nanoparticles are used as sunscreen ingredients and the sad thing is, they aren’t often included in the list of ingredients. Although they protect the skin from harmful UV rays, many sunscreen chemicals can also cause DNA damage and even cancer. Doctors recommend staying indoors and using umbrellas, caps, and the like instead of always lathering sunscreen-enriched products. If the occasion requires it, choose mineral sunscreens because they don’t penetrate the skin as well as chemical sunscreens.

Dr. Ralph is the Medical Director of Pender Medi Spa in Vancouver and the Medical Director of Skincare Centre in North Vancouver, BC. He specialszes in skincare and is a member of the Face Institute. He is also a recognised trainer of Cosmetic Injections in North America.