Every day we are exposed to glossy adverts telling us of the importance of moisturising our faces once or twice daily. They tell us that face cream will improve the quality and appearance of our skin tone, and reduce wrinkles. Whilst moisturisers can initially make our skin feel silky and smooth, are we actually using them too much?
Our skin goes through a natural cycle whereby we shed dead cells, to be replaced by newer cells from the deeper layers. However when we moisturise we are delaying this regeneration.
There may be a short-lived smoothing of the skin, but we are actually helping to retain old, dead skin cells (and it is these cells which give our complexions that dull, lifeless tone).
Many patients I see also use expensive moisturisers to try to stave off wrinkles and other signs of ageing, but over the counter products contain a very limited amount of active ingredients. These products may feel luxurious to apply, and often have a temporary plumping effect on the outer layer of dead skin cells. However, they are not working at a deeper cellular level. The internationally recognised first line treatment for wrinkles is Tretinoin, a prescription-only cream which actually stimulates cells deep in the skin (known as fibroblasts).
It is these cells which produce collagen, elastin and the skins’ own moisturiser, aminoglycans, all of which really do help to keep the skin looking fresh and firm. As with all prescriptions, treatment must be undertaken with medical supervision to minimise potential harmful effects.
It can be difficult to suddenly stop moisturising, so my advice would be to gradually reduce the amount you use, unless you have a diagnosed skin condition, so that eventually you only moisturise when the skin is unusually dry (for example following wind damage or sunburn). I would also recommend a cleansing and exfoliating regime, which encourages the regeneration of the skin, for a brighter, more radiant complexion. Finally, for an effective cream to treat wrinkles, visit your skin doctor to discuss prescription skin care.
With kind thanks to: Dr Sarah Norman
24 June 2013